Check Out: Manual Machines, Plastic Pedals, Body Armor, Camo Seats, & More

 and it blows your spokes! what a steal!

 @bmxrace121: this ones doesn’t damage your wheel, it’s ment to flex and twist with your wheel. I’ve had a go on one and it does do that. The sides are made up of more than one sheet of wood that’s not fixed together so they slide against each other. So the back wheel can kind of pivot side to side. You won’t damage it and you can work on your sideways balance

 Absolute turd of a device, go find some suitable terrain while you’re out on the bike.

 Alternatively, you could go ride your bike and practice that way no?

 yeah, pay 250$ to learn manual instead just going for a ride and learn it the hard way. It's a life bargain!

 but it says sender on it

 @fatduke: you may be right, but it could still be a useful tool especially in lockdown.
I know I can’t manual for shit, can’t do the leg pump bit. For some reason my natural response when that is need to to pedal. I end up doing stand up peddle wheelies

 @mihauek: you are not taking into account the instagram spam doing the manuals on the machine... c'mon !

 @d3ftone: Too bad it doesn't say Fooker, eh?

 @filryan: Based on your responses, it sounds like you spent $250 on this absurd device and are trying to justify it....

 @Lagr1980: My bad, I don't have instagram!

 $250 for something you can learn by riding your bike!

 I get that just going out and practicing is probably the way to learn, but a lot of people don't really commit to getting that wheel up for fear of looping out. This type of device can help people who have that mental block and help them get to that balance point without worrying about looping out and potentially injuring themselves. Pretty expensive for what it is, but what isn't in the MTB world?

 Kickass SS being used on that manual trainer

 Yeah you could make that at home, looks like all you need is a table saw, router, jig saw, palm sander, screw gun and a place to work. Then the plywood, grip tape, glue, screws and some various other stuff. Then you can spend all day Saturday messing around and probably have something. Since most people would rather have their Saturday free and they don’t want to drop $1500 bucks on tools they will rarely use I think $250 is a pretty good deal.

 @thejake: nope, all you need is something to hold your rear tire, or just go and try to learn it on the grass...

 Ryan Leech will show you how to wheelie for 220 bucks less.

www.ryanleech.com/wheelies

 @Davec85: I never understood this argument...do you people not have a rear brake?

I learned manuals and wheelies clipped in....never looped, no real close calls...

I’m not some phenom, a tap of the rear brake and down the the front goes.

Stoppies are a bit scarier to learn, but ultimately the same exact thing just reversed...release the brake and you’re fine.

It’s a relatively slow process and some people struggle more than others, but honestly it seems most people who would buy a manual trainer also lack the dedication to learn it anyways.

 @h20-50: hahaha you know it's tempting if it would stop been peddling and get me balancing. Plus I could do it from in front of the TV with no looking for the perfect place to practice and without constant going back to start of said place.
Also just because someone doesn't see the value in something doesn't mean it is a bad thing and won't work.
Dropper posts weren't well received at first but now I couldn't imagine not having one.
Or this could be a complete waste of time and money. But with out playing on one you don't know

 I could steal pallet wood and get it for free

 I can manual but not worth a crap on the "machine" the front tire rotational forces change everything about wheelies/manuals

 @Helm72: grab the front brake to avoid having to deal with gyroscopic forces!
Also i tried those manual thingies and they suck... it doesn't help you doing manuals...go and play in the street with your bike!

 @fatduke: well put

 It's alot cheaper to go out a actually manual.

 i started learning manuals on an older bike... the brakes were shagged... came out of a trail, tried to pop a sick manual and started looping out, pulled the brake, nothing happened and i went straight on my back on rocky gravel, that was well over a year ago and i still have scars on my back.

moral of the story is this would be great for those with older bikes and shitty brakes
however very expensive for something you could make outta nails and a few bits of 4 by 2

 @nvranka: You are assuming that I have one when you say 'you people'. I don't have one and would never buy one, but I can understand why some people see this as a good training aid, especially those who only got into biking in their later years and are much more risk averse. Plus, does it really matter? If someone wants to spend their hard earned money on buying one then who are we to judge?

 @rockyj: No, the moral of the story is you should buy a new rear brake, not a manual machine.

 I am coaching manuals on RLC site... and quite frankly I have to agree with you, even about the finding a slight hill and just doign it... many say manual trainers are helping them but I have a hard time believing it since manual is about rear wheel accelerating and decelerating under the rider. None of that on a trainer. There is no way manual trainer can replicate patterns of movement used when doing an actual manual. If someone installed it on a trainer it could be a good wheelie machine. Ryan Leech is sceptical himself.

 @WAKIdesigns: I would like to try a manual machine, as my problem with manuals, isn't the balance aspect, but getting the front wheel up in a controlled manner.

 @Losvar: then spend $4 and build one yourself.
Then when you realize its trash you only lost four buck instead of $250
The only reason these are popular is because they are a super cheap DIY project that let you play on your bike, not because they get results.

 @Losvar: then manual machine is a no no too. It is harder to lift the wheel in manual machine. Quick checklist: 1.do you understand difference between squat and deadlift? (you need to be deadlifting with lots of hip thrust, not squatting using mostly legs)
2.Practice rowing on bike without lifting the wheels much, try to roll from front tire to the rear tire. And back. Imagine your bike is a row machine. Make sure you are loading front first, rear later.

Most common mistake we observe is people don't compres the fork enough, don't use enough range of motion with their arms to compress it, which in return leaves you less movement range when shifting weight backwards = less momentum.

Second mistake: people push almost simultaneously with arms and legs when shifting backwards. Manual is about lifting the front and then pushing the rear wheel under you. 1-2 sequence. 3rd point is catching the manual, but that's the easier part. Rowing sequence - front - then rear with delay. So in a way you compress front, shift back while keeping legs still bent, then you push with legs after front has left the ground. You need backwards momentum before you execute hip thrust - deadlift.

Physio tip: never pull with your arms so that they get fully stretched in elbows. You don't want sudden taking the slack of the rope feeling - bad for wrists, elbows, shoulders. When you pull, end with elbows 90-95% straight but never 100%. It is not about stength - it is about creatign yourself a range of movement and coordinating it.

The bigger the bike the harder it gets though... DJ or XC hardtail are the best.

 @Losvar: Getting the front wheel up is not duplicated very well with machines in my opinion. The very act of a manual is pumping and accelerating your bike. This can't be duplicated with a bike being held in place.

 @WAKIdesigns: you just stroked my ego becaue I've been practicing them on an XL enduro bike lol. I remember trying them on my BMX as a kid though and you're right, much bigger margin for error

 @swenzowski: BMX is much harder for me personally. Especially little park BMX. Race BMX with longer stays is more manageable. The float zone is microscopic compared to a big 29er. Your moves have to be immediate and precise. Side balance has to be corrected in milisconds. Fully is also hard on it's own since you have to be proactive. The moment you feel front is dropping - it's too late. I can pull quite long ones without using rear brake on a DJ or 26-29" XC HT. But BMX is a real mastery. Then once you can pull long ones on BMX, the only problem with big bikes is pullingthem up, but wonce you are there controlling float zone is a walk in the park.

 @WAKIdesigns: Manual machines work. They help you practice the correct position to lift the front wheel, they help you find the balance point, and they help you figure out how to maintain that point. You can practice all winter, then take it directly to the trail and do manuals with very little tweaking. If you ever used one, you would know it almost feels just like a real manual.

Other uses include: 1) Suspension Sag machine, 2) Seat Height machine, 3) Body Position machine, 4) Brake Lever / Cockpit setup machine, and most obvious 5) Bike stand for holding bike to wash / work on / bike storage. Very versatile and only costs ~$10 in wood/screws.

 @Thustlewhumber: I have had success with a manual machine that I built. I have also used it for cleaning and as a bike stand. It is nice to work on manualling for 30 minutes and it is actually good exercise. I think it helps with technique but is not exactly the same as on the trail. Youdo need to remove your chain to use it properly though. If you leave the chain on then you can press on the pedal to stay up, can't do that on the trail.

 I thought a manual trainer would be good to get comfortable right at the balance point, and just get the jitters of of your system and build confidence. I might build one. And clearly, the real thing is better – but at 40 a few less falls might be nice while learning.

 @WAKIdesigns: It's actually easier to lift wheel on a manual machine, at least for me. Built one for the winter. Of course it does not teach you manual. But it is nice exercise if you do not like gyms, like me.

 @Thustlewhumber: I have used one, I can literally go out now and test it - there’s a bicycle stand 100m from my place that works as one. It has little to do with actual manual. If it actually helped someone to learn is impossible to determine. If anything it adds feeling of safety from falling back. A big part of learning process. You may be one of few who can take advantage of it. Fine. I would never recommend one to anybody over finding a 1/4 mile long slightly sloping road and practicing Front wheel lift with delayed leg push on a hardtail.

 I've built one and would argue it could have some value in helping the skills. It can help build the muscles needed to hold up a manual, learning how to shift the hips back, and the body memory for holding the position. I am someone who has been able to manual 2-3 parking spaces fairly easily in the past but not hold it much longer than that. I would argue though that a machine certainly does not teach you to manual- there is a lot more to it than the specifics the machine can help with. Sure if you've got $250 to throw around then you do you... but nothing will beat drawing chalk lines on a gently sloped parking lot and just putting in the time trying to manual through them and expanding them as you have success IMO. I always think back to Rodney Mullen when I learn a new skill- I'm not a guy that these things come easy for I remember him saying that he would do the simple motions of easy tricks over and over and over again until they feel comfortable and then advance and do the same. He said he would practice his Ollies 10's of thousands of times and then add a slight variation. I assume the same is true for manuals. No machine is going to replace that.

 @WAKIdesigns: probably not impossible to determine right? If one cannot perform a manual, then practices on manual machine, and can then execute one right after, the hypothesis looks likes it’s confirmed.

 This is exactly why I have one! Bought some second hand forks that had a slightly short steerer, but this stem plus a low stack headset and it all went together fine. Even had room for a spacer.

 @iambenw: yeah I’ve done the same, I got the black one a while ago, sick piece of kit with the usual DMR bombproof quality

 Ahahaha same boat

 Nice looking stem. Locking system is exactly like the Twenty6 F1.2 and F1.5 stems from years ago. It's a unique concept, but you really had to crank down on the bolts hard so it wouldn't twist vs the pinch clamp on every other stem

 @krashDH85: I had one years ago, it's garbage. It WILL dent your steer tube if you tighten it enough. Can't believe they're trying to bring this one back, it seems like a massive liability to me.

 @davec113: I have one too and it DIDN'T dent my steer tube. Maybe you should calm down with forearm gym

 @fracasnoxteam: No, it's just a $hit design. I'm a ME and have worked as an auto mechanic, if you tighten the mechanism enough so it doesn't come loose it will dent your steer tube. If you don't, then it requires periodic re-torquing. Unless you have a steel steer tube maybe.

 @davec113: second this. Love DMR but Odyssey tried this a while back and reverted back to traditional clamp design... and that was even pairing with steel steerer tubes.

 @davec113: Yeah I still have the F1.5 stem on my DJ, it's doing ok but I have the bolts way overtorqued and I'm sure that the steertube has some mini impressions in it at this point. I agree though, the design functionality is subpar for clamping. @fracasnoxteam, it has nothing to do at all with forearm strength. It's purely a poor design for clamping load.

 @davec113: I wonder if you could put a compression plug inside, like you would for a carbon road steerer. It would give a little more support.

 Everyone, Syncros, Thomson, Twenty6, etc. realized that the wedge design does not stay tight while also damaging your steer tube. When will they stop?

 @davec113:

Blue Loctite. Problem solved.

 I got one and think its great, i wish they’d do some oversized O.D. spacers to go under it though. It don’t look right with regular diameter spacers

 share your manual machine plans please! build it for the children, gives them something to do for an hour every day.

 Yeah I’ve got a load of DMR on my bikes, and same I’d defo buy for our son's little bike

 My Moto Digger lasted 4 years and it's now saved as a spare! DMR are great!!

 Exactly. Ridiculous.

 Could't spot it either

 I have one for sale, will put it up today. Black 50mm 35clamp, 80 cad firm.

 You dodged a bullet imo. Had a stem years ago with that locking mechanism, it comes loose and dents your steer tube.

 @davec113: Good to hear some feedback, I was wondering if there were any downsides to that type of clamp.

@jsnfschr: Been waiting for a crc order for that long too. Everything is behind.

 @davec113: It looks like a relatively similar system to the old Odyssey Elementary bmx stem. Never had any issues with that.

@h82crash: Good to know I'm not the only one. Super frustrating because I got a Wiggle order (wheel set for my DJ) in about a week and shipping was free.

 A Dainese tradition going back to Nicolas Vouliouz, maybe that's why they called him the alien.

 @DoubleCrownAddict: the dakine kneepads. The face it forms are the bend.

 Those kneepads are the best I've seen in a while; a slim hard plate is still a requirement and these have it! I'm not sold on the general 3DO-only foam trend found elsewhere in the industry.

 @rodeostu friend, even Kerry King wears protective gear, you never know when the undead may try to get too close and personal.

i.pinimg.com/originals/4b/5d/d6/4b5dd6033ecd1eef8c2f934d302993b6.jpg

 @shapethings: I think you might be proving my point here - if those kneepads were made of leather and studded, it might be ok to call them "Slayer" kneepads.

I'm not sure who is the musical patron saint of overpriced neoprene and 3DO foam (Nickelback, maybe?), but those kneepads should be named after them.

 My deftraps just came in today. They are made of a special nylon composite (Deity claims they are 30% stronger than ofther nylon composite pedals) and have the same bearings as their more expensive metal pedals.

There really is no downside to nylon composite pedals and they aren't inferior to metal pedals in any way - they actually don't get hung up on rocks and roots as much if you happen to hit your pedal into any.

They also are extremely durable, just as much if not more so compared to metal pedals. They are also pretty big, so if you have big feet, you're good! Highly recommend!.

 I prefer nylon over aluminum. The plastic pedals do eventually break, but not frequently enough to scare me away. They bounce off rocks better than aluminum and a noticeably lighter. Deftraps will be my next set I order.

 Yes, basically it boils down to aesthetics, Oneup composites, Crank Bros Stamp, Kona Wah Wah IIs, & Race Face Chesters are all great composite pedals. The nice thing about the Crank Bros is that they have a couple sizes. All are about $50 for a pair and last just as long.

 I'm just a touch under 6'4 and a bit under 300lb, geared up and have been running OneUp composites for the past three years on my enduro bike and on my dj, without any issues. Don't have any experience with the others, but would not (and will not) hesitate to buy the OneUp's again when the time comes.

 one of the few times when plastic > metal is true

I had some nice high-end metal pedals and once I got the Oneup plastic pedals, it was game over. Have had the same pair for years, taken plenty of abuse, all I've had to do is tighten the axle bolts a few times. Pretty remarkable.

As others mention, their biggest benefit is how much better they deal with rock strikes. Plus, I don't really care when they do get gouged on a rock because they're so much cheaper.

 Metal for me. Ht components basic model that cost 65 € here.
Works perfectly.

Ive destroyed nukeproof plastic pedals in less than two rides with rock strikes. My broken pedal has blocked my shoe several times during my last ride, it was a real deal not to fall stupidly.

Plastic is good if you have paths in good shape, and/or a good riding technique to avoid pedals strikes.

Two much rocks here and a lack of riding style for me... sorry. :-/

 I've used Chesters and Oneups composites and they've both been fine and I've bashed them into lots of rocks. Everyone I know with composites seems to be happy with them as long as they got one with a good axle. Deity makes good stuff so I'd try them next time I'm in the market for pedals.

 @ICKYBOD: +1 on Chesters. My local trails are a wasteland of craggy limestone waiting to nip at your pedals. The Chesters' plastic bodies just slide over such rocks like a BMX peg.

 @rodeostu: I will test these ! ;-)

 After scrolling past the pedal pics, I spotted the list of colours, and was surprized they were purple, the whole time I'd been thing they were Aubergine lol

 391gr not 291...

 Do you really think anyone who rides flat pedals specifically care about 100g?

 @Ajorda: Yes. I do. That's a strange correlation you've made there.

 I agree that they're not that durable but alot of the comfort and most of the grippy aspect come from soft rubber which is worn out quicker.

I guess the same goes for tires (maxxis maxxGrip are kinda like that as well) and maybe even shoe soles (grippiest shoe is 5/10 according to the community and what is the major complaint about them? That's riight, they don't hold up....)

 @wolfsberg: yup, I do get it, you cant really have one without the other. Its just in a perfect world, they would be soft, comfy and last forever!

 I have around 50 rides on mine so far, no problems ????

 Get the gum Kevlar ones. Easy last a gear, and I ride gloveless. Took a pair of blue to the alps in 2017, shredded them in 2 weeks. Subsequently bought gum for a trip to whistler 2018, they bedded in nice over there and didn't change them till summer 2019!

 @steviestokes: Kevlar deathgrips? Or are you talking about renthals or similar?

 @v7fmp: No, the Gum Coloured (HARD) Grip is their only hard compound. I assume its a Kevlar. But honestly. They last forever. As I said, gloveless soft lasted me 2x hard weeks of riding. Gloveless gum lasted me 2x weeks of whistler. Then 12 months of UK riding and a 2x week trip to Morzine at the end of the 12 months that finally killed them off.

 @steviestokes:
Kevlar is a product, not a material. If they had Kevlar fibers in 'em, then they would state it. Sounds good though, I've got years out of the renthal Kevlar grips but prefer the feel of the deathgrips.

 @dirtyburger: you are correct. Kevlar is a product name owned by DuPont (I think). It should be known as aramid fibres. But as it stands, Deathgrips don't come with aramid fibres (unless I am wrong).

But my comment was merely a passing opinion, love the shape, comfort and style of the grip. just wish they didn't wear so fast. But as everything else outweighs the wear issue, I will continue to use them.

 That's why it says "Check out" not "buy this".