The Gustav Pro was once a staple of Magura's line. Named after the company's founder, it was their first hydraulic disc brake. The new Gustav Pro looks to offer a similarly fresh take, with some clever features that aim to both improve performance and make them easier to live with. This brake isn't something for the weight weenies, which is a good thing because everything from the overbuilt rotors to the large lever means that this bike is all about downhill performance rather than low weight.
Of course, Magura isn't the only one that offers bigger brakes, but its approach is slightly different.
Gustav Pro Details• Gravity and eMTB
• Injection moulded lever and one-piece calliper
• Integrated, one-bolt clamp
• Easy Link system
• 348g claimed system weight
• Flipable levers
• 4-piston caliper
• 2.5mm thick rotors
• Brake only RRP - €299.90
•
magura.com Whereas something like SRAM's Maven brakes were heralded as a large jump in power for the American brand, Magura say they're already very happy with the power of their top-line gravity brakes. Instead, they wanted to take that power and make a brake that was as absolutely consistent as they could make it. Each component, whether lever, calliper, hose or rotor, offers a real distinction from what one might see from other brands currently, and there's a lot here to pique your curiosity.
A Very Different Lever and HoseI've always been irked by Magura's use of self-tapping screws on premium, high-end brakes. While it is essentially a good solution, there was just something about it that seemed so archaic and not befitting a reasonably expensive product. Well, good news for me, at least, that is now gone. They're sticking with the flippable levers, meaning you don't need to bleed them should you be setting up the bike for somebody who runs an inverse setup to your own, but they now use one T25 bolt and a hinged part. This hinged assembly can also take fittings to suit different droppers and shifters.
The lever has reach adjustment, but no bite point control and it drives the master cylinder directly. I wouldn't rule out something arriving at some point, and Magura seems very receptive to the idea of after-market tuning kits to suit rider preferences. The lever on the Gustav Pro is derived from the HC-W brake lever developed together with Loic Bruni. The lever also has a subtle notch in the middle. This feature is essentially a built-in failure point should you have a crash. By being able to control the point where the lever would snap, they're able to choose a point where the lever is still usable so you can make it to the bottom. Changing the lever is now quicker than in previous models, thanks to the bolted lever.
They've also doubled the volume of the reservoir. This was done for two reasons. Firstly, more oil, more consistency and less need to bleed the brakes, and secondly, the Bosch ABS system requires a greater volume of oil. While I do not doubt that the exact volume was set by the needs of the ABS system that you might see on some e-bikes in coming years, all riders who want more consistency can benefit from having more oil, both in terms of performance and servicing. When pads near the end of their life, it means that there will be less oil in the reservoir as it's drawn into the system. This means the diaphragm can create a vacuum, leading to inconsistency. If you've ever bought your pads further out and had the lever feeling great at home only to have it come to the bar again once heat is introduced into the system, this is most likely why.
The master piston on other Magura brakes has been enlarged from 10mm to 12mm, and the calliper pistons have increased by 2mm to 19mm. The Gustav Pro has a reduced system pressure but keeps the same hydraulic ratio. A lower system pressure will suffer less from hose expansion, and it also means that should an air bubble be in the system, it will have less effect.
The levers will be sold pre-bled, with a membrane covering the hose-port. This is where Magura's showpiece comes in - their Easy Link connection system. The crimped piece on the end of the hose pierces the membrane. You then secure the mechanism to lock it, and that's it - that's your new lever installed. The really clever bit about Easy Link is that the new crimped connections are the same diameter as the hose, meaning you can disconnect it, pass it through a frame (or headset) and not have to shorten your hoses as you remove a nut.
There are some small issues, however. Firstly, the crimping tool to factory install the fitting is quite expensive, so when shortening the hoses to fit your frame you'll probably end up cutting off the insert and replacing it with a more traditional fitting at home. The replacement would have the same interface as the lever but would use a nut and then not be able to reap the full benefits of being the smaller diameter, crimped part. A way around this, of course, would be to shorten the hose from the calliper end. This would then mean you have to bleed the whole system, but I think that's a small price to pay to keep something neat. When you do bleed the brake, the syringes now go straight into the port without a hose. Magura suggests this provides one less point of failure.
This system will be used in all future Magura brakes and is retrofittable to older Magura brakes with an adaptor.
Caliper and Disc
While Easy Link, clever injection moulding and a significantly larger amount of oil are all good and well, my personal highlight is the massive 2.5mm rotors. These rotors are so thick that you now only need to make sure the calliper itself is aligned because the rotor is stiff enough to push the pistons back. In fact, the disc is so thick its interface has to have material machined away to offset the rotor and keep it within tolerances for the bike brand's brake mounts. There is enough oil in the system that, should you choose to, you can run the 2mm rotors without needing to rebleed the system.
The thicker rotors also, Magura claims, vibrate less, meaning brakes are quieter. Interestingly, Magura also say that thanks to a combination of features (mainly power, pad surface area and rotor stiffness), the brakes don't need a prescribed bedding in, and you can just get on and ride. Having ridden these brakes fresh out of the box I would say it's largely true. There are probably two braking instances where the power isn't great and then it's good from there on out.
The pads themselves still use their magnetic system, which I quite like. Using four individual pads means that you can run the same, larger pistons throughout the caliper. Typically, larger pistons are positioned closer to the rotor’s trailing edge, while the smaller pistons are near the leading edge. This is done to provide a more balanced application of pressure, reducing the risk of the pads wearing unevenly and improving overall braking performance. However, with individual pads, it's not required, Magura claims.
Ride Impressions
While I only spent a short period riding these brakes on an incredibly wet Austrian mountainside, my initial impressions are very good, and they've certainly piqued my curiosity. At one point between runs I rode the ebike (yes, ebike park laps are a thing in Europe) in turbo mode down a steep road with the rear brake dragging heavily. The disc began to glow red but power remained consistent. Once I got to the bottom and let the bike cool, the lever did feel slightly softer. However, after one or two hard braking efforts, the positive feel returned. Throughout, they remained quiet.
The power is very good, if not mind-blowing. I think we're at a point where we've been spoiled in recent years. However, it's got plenty there, even if it does without the lightweight action of something like the Hayes Dominions. Personally, I prefer this slightly heavier feel as I find it a lot easier to modulate the brake. In its stock guise, the lever doesn't come close enough to the bar for my liking. Magura says there will be aftermarket lever blades available in due course and explains that the minimum reach point was set due to constraints provided by the ABS system.
Overall, Magura has made a brake that is very different, and I, for one, will be curious not only to put this setup through a long-term test but also to see if other brands follow suit to the 2.5mm rotors in time, much like they did with 2.3s.
Unless these new plastic levers are much, much stiffer than the old plastic levers I would stay away.
I don't know why Magura shit is so much more expensive in the US
but we always set up bikes so that levers and shifters would rotate in the event you ate grass. As noted by @Struggleteam I picked this up from my moto days mechanic. I could go through 3 clutch levers in a weekend before I made this switch.
Galfer is another culprit, their US/Canada Prices were 88% more than via bike24.
I don't think its companies like Magura/Galfer Europe that are the problem, its their NA distribution groups that have become so greedy.
Not sure if I have a lemon or something? Whatever it is the MT7 feel less powerful, and less tactile/ intuitive. Maybe I'd get used to them if I rode them exclusively, but I find the power comes on unpredictably. It's almost non-linear. Like you pull a bit and they slow a bit, you pull a little more, and they are locked up.
I've tried several different pads, currently Galfer, and am now trying Shimano levers. Shimano levers are a small improvement, but I still don't really like them. Run 200mm rotors on both.
And the build quality is incomparable. The Hope's put them to shame.
I swear, there are too many wanna-be mechanics that mess up perfectly good products, then act like they're defective.
This sentence doesn't make much sense, from my point of view: A way around this, of course, would be to shorten the hose from the caliper end.
Pinkbike surely must also have read the public Magura website before publishing an article: magura.com/en/EUR/magura-easy-link-easy-tube-technologies
Or at 1:30 for those who prefer videos with a slow voice-over: youtu.be/Jp66VgaFM3Y
and, do they offer any rebuild kits to service caliper and master after a few years?
They're not self-tapping screws, just very coarse threaded; closer to wood screws than the machine screws seen everywhere else on a bike. The lever body is pre-drilled and the screws installed at the factory, hence you weren't cutting threads on the first installation.
It was also the best solution for the material. Using machine screws in that carbotexture stuff would be a terrible idea, no matter how much the proper solution irks you.
Top tip when bleeding.
Once you’ve rid of air bubbles you will find you can still push oil into the lever just do this slowly to ensure you don’t blow it out and have to start again,
leave the Syringe in there.
Then fit your pads set the Caliper up squeezing the lever and again push more oil into the lever.
Job done solid firm bite point.
I found noise= vibrations= loose bolts in the brake system.
In my DH bike I got Galfer ebike pads in the rear,those can last longer and the performance is very close to the green pads.
Those Galfer green pads are very very smelly when the brake is hot,easy task with my Code´s brakes hehehe,but never got a single problem,even in the winter snow or very wet/muddy days.
For instance, if you double the radius, you also double the diameter; and you quadruple the area.
Back to the example at hand, we went from a ratio of (17/2)^2 / (10/2)^2 (the pis cancel out--and to my previous point, the divide by 2s cancel out as well--just try it both ways!) or 2.89, to a ratio of (19/2)^2 / (12/2)^2, or 2.5. This difference may become more obvious if you look at an extreme example--suppose you added 1000 mm of diameter to both pistons. Then they'd be essentially the same diameter to a certain amount of rounding, and the ratio would be essentially 1:1.
You didn't show your work so I can't tell you where you went wrong there.
That and the break away lever blade should make this break not break... (enter X-Files Theme)
" however, is the clamp, which is made of aluminum"
How this was not mentioned in the PB article, its a hot topic with magura Breakes.
More oil in the reservoir isn't going to change this. There is still going to be the same amount less oil in the reservoir. It will be a smaller fraction of the total, but the diaphragm still has to account for the same loss. And this is why good brakes have a vent in the res cover, because the diaphragm itself is pretty thin and I don't really see how it can pull much vacuum from it's own elasticity.
Might want to check that?
I just have two set of Shigura (slx with MT5) , these are just the best brakes I ever tried , and I never had any issue of bite point with the servowave system
More in the reservoir probably isn't really going to help with consistency through a run, since the heat from the caliper is not even going to make it up to the master cylinder, let alone into the reservoir.