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First Ride: Magura Relaunch the Gustav Pro Brakes

Jun 26, 2024
by Henry Quinney  
photo

The Gustav Pro was once a staple of Magura's line. Named after the company's founder, it was their first hydraulic disc brake. The new Gustav Pro looks to offer a similarly fresh take, with some clever features that aim to both improve performance and make them easier to live with. This brake isn't something for the weight weenies, which is a good thing because everything from the overbuilt rotors to the large lever means that this bike is all about downhill performance rather than low weight.

Of course, Magura isn't the only one that offers bigger brakes, but its approach is slightly different.
Gustav Pro Details

• Gravity and eMTB
• Injection moulded lever and one-piece calliper
• Integrated, one-bolt clamp
• Easy Link system
• 348g claimed system weight
• Flipable levers
• 4-piston caliper
• 2.5mm thick rotors
• Brake only RRP - €299.90
magura.com

Whereas something like SRAM's Maven brakes were heralded as a large jump in power for the American brand, Magura say they're already very happy with the power of their top-line gravity brakes. Instead, they wanted to take that power and make a brake that was as absolutely consistent as they could make it. Each component, whether lever, calliper, hose or rotor, offers a real distinction from what one might see from other brands currently, and there's a lot here to pique your curiosity.

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A Very Different Lever and Hose

I've always been irked by Magura's use of self-tapping screws on premium, high-end brakes. While it is essentially a good solution, there was just something about it that seemed so archaic and not befitting a reasonably expensive product. Well, good news for me, at least, that is now gone. They're sticking with the flippable levers, meaning you don't need to bleed them should you be setting up the bike for somebody who runs an inverse setup to your own, but they now use one T25 bolt and a hinged part. This hinged assembly can also take fittings to suit different droppers and shifters.

The lever has reach adjustment, but no bite point control and it drives the master cylinder directly. I wouldn't rule out something arriving at some point, and Magura seems very receptive to the idea of after-market tuning kits to suit rider preferences. The lever on the Gustav Pro is derived from the HC-W brake lever developed together with Loic Bruni. The lever also has a subtle notch in the middle. This feature is essentially a built-in failure point should you have a crash. By being able to control the point where the lever would snap, they're able to choose a point where the lever is still usable so you can make it to the bottom. Changing the lever is now quicker than in previous models, thanks to the bolted lever.

photo

They've also doubled the volume of the reservoir. This was done for two reasons. Firstly, more oil, more consistency and less need to bleed the brakes, and secondly, the Bosch ABS system requires a greater volume of oil. While I do not doubt that the exact volume was set by the needs of the ABS system that you might see on some e-bikes in coming years, all riders who want more consistency can benefit from having more oil, both in terms of performance and servicing. When pads near the end of their life, it means that there will be less oil in the reservoir as it's drawn into the system. This means the diaphragm can create a vacuum, leading to inconsistency. If you've ever bought your pads further out and had the lever feeling great at home only to have it come to the bar again once heat is introduced into the system, this is most likely why.

The master piston on other Magura brakes has been enlarged from 10mm to 12mm, and the calliper pistons have increased by 2mm to 19mm. The Gustav Pro has a reduced system pressure but keeps the same hydraulic ratio. A lower system pressure will suffer less from hose expansion, and it also means that should an air bubble be in the system, it will have less effect.

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The levers will be sold pre-bled, with a membrane covering the hose-port. This is where Magura's showpiece comes in - their Easy Link connection system. The crimped piece on the end of the hose pierces the membrane. You then secure the mechanism to lock it, and that's it - that's your new lever installed. The really clever bit about Easy Link is that the new crimped connections are the same diameter as the hose, meaning you can disconnect it, pass it through a frame (or headset) and not have to shorten your hoses as you remove a nut.

There are some small issues, however. Firstly, the crimping tool to factory install the fitting is quite expensive, so when shortening the hoses to fit your frame you'll probably end up cutting off the insert and replacing it with a more traditional fitting at home. The replacement would have the same interface as the lever but would use a nut and then not be able to reap the full benefits of being the smaller diameter, crimped part. A way around this, of course, would be to shorten the hose from the calliper end. This would then mean you have to bleed the whole system, but I think that's a small price to pay to keep something neat. When you do bleed the brake, the syringes now go straight into the port without a hose. Magura suggests this provides one less point of failure.

This system will be used in all future Magura brakes and is retrofittable to older Magura brakes with an adaptor.

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Caliper and Disc

While Easy Link, clever injection moulding and a significantly larger amount of oil are all good and well, my personal highlight is the massive 2.5mm rotors. These rotors are so thick that you now only need to make sure the calliper itself is aligned because the rotor is stiff enough to push the pistons back. In fact, the disc is so thick its interface has to have material machined away to offset the rotor and keep it within tolerances for the bike brand's brake mounts. There is enough oil in the system that, should you choose to, you can run the 2mm rotors without needing to rebleed the system.

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The thicker rotors also, Magura claims, vibrate less, meaning brakes are quieter. Interestingly, Magura also say that thanks to a combination of features (mainly power, pad surface area and rotor stiffness), the brakes don't need a prescribed bedding in, and you can just get on and ride. Having ridden these brakes fresh out of the box I would say it's largely true. There are probably two braking instances where the power isn't great and then it's good from there on out.

The pads themselves still use their magnetic system, which I quite like. Using four individual pads means that you can run the same, larger pistons throughout the caliper. Typically, larger pistons are positioned closer to the rotor’s trailing edge, while the smaller pistons are near the leading edge. This is done to provide a more balanced application of pressure, reducing the risk of the pads wearing unevenly and improving overall braking performance. However, with individual pads, it's not required, Magura claims.

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Ride Impressions

While I only spent a short period riding these brakes on an incredibly wet Austrian mountainside, my initial impressions are very good, and they've certainly piqued my curiosity. At one point between runs I rode the ebike (yes, ebike park laps are a thing in Europe) in turbo mode down a steep road with the rear brake dragging heavily. The disc began to glow red but power remained consistent. Once I got to the bottom and let the bike cool, the lever did feel slightly softer. However, after one or two hard braking efforts, the positive feel returned. Throughout, they remained quiet.

The power is very good, if not mind-blowing. I think we're at a point where we've been spoiled in recent years. However, it's got plenty there, even if it does without the lightweight action of something like the Hayes Dominions. Personally, I prefer this slightly heavier feel as I find it a lot easier to modulate the brake. In its stock guise, the lever doesn't come close enough to the bar for my liking. Magura says there will be aftermarket lever blades available in due course and explains that the minimum reach point was set due to constraints provided by the ABS system.

Overall, Magura has made a brake that is very different, and I, for one, will be curious not only to put this setup through a long-term test but also to see if other brands follow suit to the 2.5mm rotors in time, much like they did with 2.3s.




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138 Comments
  • 165 36
 They should finally stop with their carbotecture aka plastic shit. Doesn't look good, doesn't feel good and breaks at the first gust of wind. The Magura set is more expensive than a Hope Tech4 V4 set. Ridiculous.
  • 27 39
flag Muckal (Jun 26, 2024 at 2:59) (Below Threshold)
 So you say simple metal alloys are a superior material for safety related parts that have to take lots of abuse from crashing and wrenching? Seems hard to build some kind of marketing story around tried and true materials everyone else is using?
  • 23 6
 I would go easily +1 on this one, if I haven't seen a single metal component and loads of composite failed, but it's actually the other way around.
  • 23 4
 @look-out: Yeah I have seen countless bent sram and shimano levers, but my son crashed his mt5 levers recently, they kind of swined back and nothing happened. And even those MT5s are on par with my Shimano, whereas Sram, let's not talk about it Smile
  • 9 1
 Ever since the early days (when only Louise and Clara came with a composite master) Magura recommended to leave the brake master handlebar loose enough for it to swivel away in case of a crash. Whether it will actually swivel away also depends on what is in the way (notably the shifter if it is clamped to the handlebar directly) but other than that the broken masters I've seen were clamped pretty tight to the handlebar. Thinking of it, maybe people worried about the unit rotating under normal use could be served by applying a drop of blue Loctite between clamp and bars. It might be sufficient to keep the unit in place with reasonably low clamping force yet will break way and swivel once it receives a hit. Not sure how well this stuff on plastics though, haven't tried that.
  • 5 6
 @Muckal: Tried and shit.
  • 9 2
 On an MT series plastic lever I once tried this: block the lever with a screwdriver placed close to the pivot point, then pull on the lever. I could easily deflect it by 5mm with moderate finger force. It was basically the equivalent of the nonsense "brake power modulators" that were in fashion on V-brakes for a while. No wonder the brakes felt mushy.

Unless these new plastic levers are much, much stiffer than the old plastic levers I would stay away.
  • 26 2
 nothing says quality like self-tapping screws into plastic (carbotecture) and a plastic bleed screw.
  • 11 5
 100% agree, a quick glance in the junk bin at the shop, there are several magura levers in pieces. Considering we rarely sell them, its a pretty elevated hit rate
  • 15 0
 Old Moto hack, just put a bit of teflon tape on the bars before mounting so the master can move in crash. Either way if you don’t torque the mounting screws like a yutz, worst case the clamp should break and not the master itself in a crash. It’s designed that way. Also have to stay away from the “match maker” shifter/ dropper combo like wolf tooth sells. They make the clamp much stronger than the master cylinder which is a bad feature.
  • 8 2
 The only thing worse than the pads constantly rubbing on the rotors is the plastic
  • 12 0
 @vinay: every brand recommends leaving your brake clamps loose enough that they can rotate in a crash, nothing specific to magura or carbotecture
  • 9 0
 Magura products are only expensive in the US. I bought the MT7s from Bike24 for $130/ea, which is cheaper than most brakes out there. Shipping was $60 for front/rear + rotors + pads. Now that Magura's caught on, you either have to use a parcel forwarder, or shop with one of the many eBay resellers who do the same thing.

I don't know why Magura shit is so much more expensive in the US
  • 6 13
flag zepper (Jun 26, 2024 at 7:31) (Below Threshold)
 Tried on set of MT7's and they were the finickiest gar-bage brakes. They never held a bleed. I could always get them solid on the bench and then 5 miles into a ride they needed a bleed. I swapped the near new brakes into a bike i was selling, put the best bleed i could and ran.
  • 23 3
 @zepper: I have found the opposite. We have 8 sets of Maguras and they seldom ever need bled. Might want to fire your mechanic.
  • 6 0
 @chize: Im not sure if brands recommend it,
but we always set up bikes so that levers and shifters would rotate in the event you ate grass. As noted by @Struggleteam I picked this up from my moto days mechanic. I could go through 3 clutch levers in a weekend before I made this switch.
  • 3 1
 @Muckal: The strongest fiber filled Grivory Polymers in ideal injection mould scenarios come close to „low“ strength Aluminium alloys. But why should you be restricted to simple Al Alloys?
  • 2 0
 @Struggleteam: Love your reply!
  • 9 0
 @ballsackington: same! i luckily bought 2 sets of MT7's before bike24 stopped shipping Magura to Canada. They were selling for €105/ea with €20 shipping.

Galfer is another culprit, their US/Canada Prices were 88% more than via bike24.

I don't think its companies like Magura/Galfer Europe that are the problem, its their NA distribution groups that have become so greedy.
  • 1 0
 @makrelus: 'simple' as in 'not fibre reinforced plastics with lots of marketing BS behind it'. Not ideally written by me. I don't know which alloys are used usually. Obviously Shimano would use others than Hope.
  • 2 0
 @ballsackington: i just bought a set of Cura 2 for 110 Euros. So? The price is not the problem, but basically everything else.
  • 6 1
 I tried MT7s on my e bike after hearing so many good things. Use Tech4 V4 on enduro bike. The MT7s have been really disappointing in comparison. It's hard to switch from V4 to them.

Not sure if I have a lemon or something? Whatever it is the MT7 feel less powerful, and less tactile/ intuitive. Maybe I'd get used to them if I rode them exclusively, but I find the power comes on unpredictably. It's almost non-linear. Like you pull a bit and they slow a bit, you pull a little more, and they are locked up.

I've tried several different pads, currently Galfer, and am now trying Shimano levers. Shimano levers are a small improvement, but I still don't really like them. Run 200mm rotors on both.

And the build quality is incomparable. The Hope's put them to shame.
  • 2 0
 @onawalk: Yes. And I also set my shift and dropper cables a bit shorter than the brake hose so those cables are a sort of steering stop to protect the brake hose.
  • 4 1
 @Struggleteam: Same here. Once bled I haven't had any need to change the fluid. They're solid once they're set up. I think most just want set and forget. For them....there's Shimano. Let's not talk about the bite point.
  • 4 0
 @chezotron: if they ever do feel a touch soft, i just put 30 ml of fluid in syringe that has a relief hole drilled in it. You stick that in the bleed port on the master. just tug up on the plunger unit it gets passed the hole in the syringe. It will pull any small air bubbles you may have out. Easy to do on a new install as well if you have cut the lines.
  • 2 0
 @lkubica: but there are also countless more SRAM and Shimano brakes in the world. It may be close to 1 in 100 bikes has a brand that isn't Shimano or SRAM.
  • 1 0
 @rjude: I fire my mechanic all the damn time. Keep hiring that bastard back though!
  • 2 0
 Where do you stop for magura brakes? The mt5 is a fraction of a hope brake!
  • 1 0
 @MartinKS: he's obviously speaking about this new set here. R2 asks 300.- for one brake.
  • 1 0
 @eastonsmith: Sounds like user error with bleeding or defective brakes.
  • 3 0
 @Struggleteam: Yeah, I've had them for years and hardly have to mess with them.
I swear, there are too many wanna-be mechanics that mess up perfectly good products, then act like they're defective.
  • 2 1
 And their quality control is absolute garbage. Shameful consistency for a brake that expensive. When Magura brakes work well, they're so great; but when they don't work right, they are a nightmare to use and work on. I suspect they have a seal quality issue on the caliper side, because I've had brakes that totally worked fine, and mid-ride the lever either went straight to the bar, or the rotors made the most awful squealing and braking quality just went to shit.
  • 2 0
 @zepper: Gotta learn how to bleed them.
  • 2 0
 @Muckal: all I can say is that I have snapped a magura lever/master cylinder in a crash, and I've never broken a Shimano, Sram, Hayes, etc... That use metal for their master cylinder housing.
  • 7 0
 You just need to torque to spec and not misstake Nm for UggahDuggahs. 3 UggahDuggahs is like 1000 freedom eagles which is way too much!
  • 4 0
 @look-out: i bent a SRAM lever beyond repair about once or twice a year
  • 2 1
 @skiboot1: I just mean that the metal levers or bodies on most brakes are sh*t anyway. Maybe Hope or other CNed brakes are better, but Shimano and Sram levers are very soft, so arguing that Magura is worse because it's plastic makes no sense. Being metal does not automatically mean that it's in any way better than plastic.
  • 1 0
 @Struggleteam: funny. I know it's hard to find experienced wrenches!
  • 1 0
 @nickfranko: awesome, There are a lot of overly confident "mechanics" in our industry but we keep trying to spread the proper info and tech. Only the professionals and smarter ones are open to learn.
  • 1 0
 @eae903: Are you new to the sport?
  • 2 2
 Yeah, I mean, it's not like Magura hasn't been around for a while, they should totally take the word of a rando, opinionated poster (who might or might not actually ride).
  • 19 0
 How do you cut the hose then? The easy link on the lever as well as the banjo on the caliper are both crimped and can't be re-connected...
  • 12 0
 Good point. I was aking myself the same.

This sentence doesn't make much sense, from my point of view: A way around this, of course, would be to shorten the hose from the caliper end.
  • 5 0
 unless you can find some quality banjo with barb and olive. So far I never found some tho.
  • 6 0
 I'd just cut it at the brake master end and use their screw-in Easy Link connector so that you won't have to bleed the brake again. The factory press connection is nice but for the home mechanic, the screw-in connector is the way to go.

Pinkbike surely must also have read the public Magura website before publishing an article: magura.com/en/EUR/magura-easy-link-easy-tube-technologies

Or at 1:30 for those who prefer videos with a slow voice-over: youtu.be/Jp66VgaFM3Y
  • 2 0
 @vinay: wow... interesting value selling in all the articles for a feature that is not useable for most people since this brake won't be stock on many bikes.
  • 2 1
 @nolimit: I have no experience with recent Magura brakes, but the pre-MT aftermarket brakes typically came with a bag with parts to shorten and reconnect the hose. It even came with a T25 tool. You'd need an insert and olive (crimp) as well to shorten and reconnect these older "conventional" hoses. So I'd expect the required parts would come with these aftermarket brakes as well. The tone of your comments suggests that you have inside information that they're planning to not supply these bits then?
  • 1 0
 @Balgaroth: Elvedes makes aftermarket sets
  • 2 0
 @vinay: Dang it's basically a pint sized hydraulic quick coupling. That is so freaking cool Big Grin . Since it's a barb on one end, I would think shortening the line is no different than the barb/olive on their prior products. Edit - sort of - looks like you can use a crimp system or threaded system: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp66VgaFM3Y
  • 4 0
 @vinay: The crimped version can be routed through the cable routing as is however. The screwed version cannot. Tbh I think this is great from Magura and wish this was on all manufactures brakes. Being able to buy and install an after market brake without have to rebleed it is great.
  • 3 0
 @iduckett: They've been working with these for quite a while. Not sure what it was called, but they had this brake where much (including the master cylinder) would be installed inside the handlebar. These used connectors like that too. Even Louise and Julie 2010 or so they had the bleed nipple in the reservoir cap which wasn't threaded in, but was a luer cone. So push it with the smaller allen key to take it out and push it back to close it. Was cool as well.
  • 3 0
 @Balgaroth: The obvious way around all this nonsense with barbs, olives and pre crimped banjos, would be going with Goodridge's fitting system, that doesn't require any of that bs and is 100% reusable. But the bike industry obviously doesn't want reusable.
  • 14 3
 The original predecessor was called the "Gustav M" not the "Gustav Pro". Also, it had a swimming design, where the brake body could travel a few mm to balance any dings in the rotor. This seems to be missing in the new design. I would not call this a successor at all, this is not a Gustav to me.
  • 7 0
 The Gustav M was a floating caliper that only had pistons on one side, like a low end automotive brake. The symmetrical design, that all other bike brakes including the new Gustav have, is theoretically better, which is why it's used on higher end motor vehicles as well. The main advantage of the floating caliper was that it allowed the use of larger, longer pistons, without interfering with the spokes. Longer pistons are less likely to get canted and stick in the bore under braking forces. They did, however, always rub a little bit, as there was no force pushing the fixed pad back to the right when you let off the brake.
  • 10 0
 i'm wondering if they thought about it all, compared to mt7, does the lever blade still rely on a weak spring that always fails to stay in place?
and, do they offer any rebuild kits to service caliper and master after a few years?
  • 7 1
 I love the MT7 brakes, but the lack of ability to rebuild them has me looking elsewhere next time. That is easily the biggest issue that no one talks much about.
  • 5 0
 @ninjatarian: i know, same, love them with oak levers but i'm window shopping for a future proof brakeset, hope v4 maybe, Trickstuff has something coming out in a week or so
  • 7 2
 @ninjatarian: a new shimano lever is cheaper for your mT7s ; ). It's like Magura wants people to mix other lever if they continue with they carbotexture nonsense.. I really like MT5/7 but now have only Shigura since 5 years ago.
  • 6 0
 @Lagr1980: Caliper is still an issue though, no replacement pistons available and new yellow calipers are not readily available either. They are limited edition in every sense of the word including time you can use them.
  • 3 0
 We dont talk about sram.
  • 13 1
 So... what Shimano levers would you recommend with these new brakes? #AllHailLordShigura
  • 2 1
 Shiguras FTW
  • 2 0
 XT of course, the best value
  • 12 2
 When you want the constant minor rubbing that comes with magura's 4 individual pads combined with the wandering bite point of shimano's shitty master cylinder.
  • 2 0
 @Velosexualist: I went with the SLX levers. XT and SLX levers are identical except for the finish and the free-stroke adjustment screw on the XT that doesn't do anything anyway.
  • 1 0
 I would expect a really long throw, possibly unusable. Looking forward to hear the outcome if someone does try it
  • 1 0
 @AndrewHornor: I think these calipers might actually not be usable with Shimano levers. You'll likely get a bite point, but chances are high there will not be an air gap big enough between rotor and pads to allow for a rub-free setup.
  • 12 1
 I guess it's vital for plastic levers to be easily replaceable, right?
  • 7 0
 I've read two reviews from men with supposedly normal sized hands saying that the lever doesn't move in far enough for them. From a company that is supposedly focussed on ergonomics and customization, that is very odd..
  • 3 1
 I think having the lever close to the bar is an advanced rider preference and those brakes are aimed at the ebike crowd with ABS.
  • 12 6
 "I've always been irked by Magura's use of self-tapping screws"

They're not self-tapping screws, just very coarse threaded; closer to wood screws than the machine screws seen everywhere else on a bike. The lever body is pre-drilled and the screws installed at the factory, hence you weren't cutting threads on the first installation.

It was also the best solution for the material. Using machine screws in that carbotexture stuff would be a terrible idea, no matter how much the proper solution irks you.
  • 5 0
 just want to point out the 4 pad isnt just to allow four same sized pistons, its for the material bridge across the caliper, which adds stiffness, with this bridge and a one piece per side pad, you have to take the caliper off to change the pads.
  • 7 1
 I've got nothing against using high quality plastics for construction, but Magura need to add an extra point of contact to the bar like Shimano do. This is why I run Shigua.
  • 4 0
 Love my MT7 with HC3 levers and sintered pads,
Top tip when bleeding.

Once you’ve rid of air bubbles you will find you can still push oil into the lever just do this slowly to ensure you don’t blow it out and have to start again,

leave the Syringe in there.

Then fit your pads set the Caliper up squeezing the lever and again push more oil into the lever.

Job done solid firm bite point.
  • 5 1
 Does the whole 'no need for bedding in' mean the pads are super soft and wear quickly? If I remember correctly the same is being claimed for green Galfer pads and from personal experience they do wear quickly.
  • 5 0
 if you want great performance and close to no noise the options are always quick wearing, the magura race are loud af but never wear, it's a trade, pick what you care most
  • 2 1
 Galfer green pads wear quicker than many OEM pads but they are excellent. True those pads only need 2 brake applications to work fine.
I found noise= vibrations= loose bolts in the brake system.
In my DH bike I got Galfer ebike pads in the rear,those can last longer and the performance is very close to the green pads.
Those Galfer green pads are very very smelly when the brake is hot,easy task with my Code´s brakes hehehe,but never got a single problem,even in the winter snow or very wet/muddy days.
  • 6 0
 I really hoped they went for the old style "moto look" lever with the separate reservoir. *sigh*
  • 5 0
 The originals were Gustav M's, and from recollection were the brake of choice for Cedric Gracia and other DH racers at the time.
  • 8 2
 These really are a Gust av item for the Magura fans
  • 3 0
 Nice to see the family names return, though I'd rather see her named Louise. Gustav is linked to the floating brake caliper. A floating four piston caliper would surely sell!
  • 5 1
 I hope the rivets on floating rotor don’t develop play after 3 months. Ended up trashing mine. Would like to try the brakes tho.
  • 4 0
 The rotors in the pictures aren't floating. Did you see something else somewhere else?
  • 5 0
 We need a Grim donut for disk brake rotors! Just jump to 5mm thick already!
  • 2 0
 If the lever piston went from 10 to 12 mm, and the caliper piston went from 17 to 19, then that is NOT the same hydraulic ratio (which is caliper piston area divided by lever piston area, and area varies with the square of the diameter). Unless they also changed the leverage ratio between your finger, the piston pivot, and the lever pivot to compensate.
  • 1 2
 Area varies with the square of the radius of a circle, not the diameter. At any rate, both the master and the caliper pistons increased in surface are by 24.9%,so the ratio should be the same.
  • 3 0
 @reindeln: The area of a circle is calculated with the radius, but it varies with the square of the radius AND with the square of the diameter, because the diameter is just twice the radius.

For instance, if you double the radius, you also double the diameter; and you quadruple the area.

Back to the example at hand, we went from a ratio of (17/2)^2 / (10/2)^2 (the pis cancel out--and to my previous point, the divide by 2s cancel out as well--just try it both ways!) or 2.89, to a ratio of (19/2)^2 / (12/2)^2, or 2.5. This difference may become more obvious if you look at an extreme example--suppose you added 1000 mm of diameter to both pistons. Then they'd be essentially the same diameter to a certain amount of rounding, and the ratio would be essentially 1:1.

You didn't show your work so I can't tell you where you went wrong there.
  • 2 0
 I really wanted to like the MT7s, but spent countless hours bleeding them. They were so finicky compared to shimano. Plus both calipers had to be warrantied due to leaks where the hose connects. I will say Their warranty dept was very easy to work with though
  • 3 0
 Looks like the hinged assembly that holds the leaver boddy to the bar is alloy,.
That and the break away lever blade should make this break not break... (enter X-Files Theme)
  • 4 0
 confirmed on MTBNEWS.de
" however, is the clamp, which is made of aluminum"
How this was not mentioned in the PB article, its a hot topic with magura Breakes.
  • 4 0
 Brake components should never be made out of plastic. Period. Love my Hope T4V4's to the moon and back.
  • 2 0
 How about commercial and military fuselages? How about weapons like Glocks or high end bicycle frames? What about plastic handlebars? Plastic crank arms, plastic helmets? Should any of those be made out of plastic... I mean fancy plastic ..I mean carbon fiber?
  • 3 2
 "When pads near the end of their life, it means that there will be less oil in the reservoir as it's drawn into the system. This means the diaphragm can create a vaccuum, leading to inconsistency"

More oil in the reservoir isn't going to change this. There is still going to be the same amount less oil in the reservoir. It will be a smaller fraction of the total, but the diaphragm still has to account for the same loss. And this is why good brakes have a vent in the res cover, because the diaphragm itself is pretty thin and I don't really see how it can pull much vacuum from it's own elasticity.
  • 2 1
 Does Easy Link seal itself upon removal? Their site doesn't specify, only mentions it won't need a bleed after initial installation. If not, and I assume they'd mention it explicitly if it was so, then you'll still need to bleed it after headset maintenance, it just removes the potential of required shortening.
  • 3 0
 The master piston on other Magura brakes has been enlarged from 1mm to 12mm, and the calliper pistons have increased by 2mm to 19mm.

Might want to check that?
  • 2 0
 Didn't you know older Magura brakes had a 1:17 hydraulic leverage ratio?
  • 1 0
 So interesting and potentially good brakes, that could've been better if they didn't have to make provisions for e-bike ABS support, that 5% of the riders are going to use? Should've made two different versions. Would've also been the first time an 'eMTB' product actually did something different.
  • 1 0
 Magura, like other companies, put development money where the highest profit margins are. Hence, new brakes designed and marketed for E-bikes where they can charge the consumer more money for a product that costs the same to produce as the "obsolete" models.
  • 2 0
 The ORIGINAL GUSTAVS which i used WAAAAYYYYYYYYY Back in the day STILL CRUSH ANYTHING Magura has put out in the current day !!!!!!...LOL.. ( Anyone here used THOSE back then ???) THOSE WERE INSANE..
  • 3 0
 Wonder if my Oak levers would work... Not 100% sure with these new features.
  • 3 0
 I'm going to guess they won't considering the oak lever have that set screw on the opposite side of the lever that touches off near the hose. There's nothing on the gustavs for that set screw to touch off on. I'd like the Easy Link on some MT7 with Oaks but I'm not even sure that would work either.
  • 1 0
 @slovenian6474: Yea, you’re right. Nothing for the 2nd adjuster screw to touch off on.
  • 3 0
 Nice, more plastic on a brake that uses T20 pad bolts, which definitely is not annoying.
  • 3 0
 Having a bike with MT7 and cable tourism, I'm more interested in this Easy Link for the MT7.
  • 6 2
 Shigura compatible?!
  • 5 0
 Well, considering the increased the piston diameter for this brake, you will enjoy pulling your brake lever nice and close to the handlebars when you use the Shimano brake master instead.
  • 3 0
 Maybe not. With worn rotors and pads I found Shimano levers to be lacking some oil volume, even when run with the older design Magura calipers. Braking power should be higher with a Shimano lever, though, if my logic is correct.
  • 3 0
 @pyromaniac: It is, but only if you reach the bit point before the brake lever hits the grips.
  • 3 0
 @vinay: We need custom bent bars!
  • 4 0
 @vinay: what if you use this lever with shimano calipers Wink
  • 4 0
 @Newgame2113: Early bite point, little brake power.
  • 5 0
 I’d be more intrigued to see what they’re like with a Maven lever, as it might solve some of the alleged issues with both systems
  • 2 0
 Crazy to read some comments here
I just have two set of Shigura (slx with MT5) , these are just the best brakes I ever tried , and I never had any issue of bite point with the servowave system
  • 2 0
 @jpnbrider: these Gustav calipers use bigger pistons than MT5's do. That's why they are not expected to work well with Shimano levers
  • 1 0
 @samdaman1: can confirm maven/magura setup is fantastic. I switched after snapping a second magura master cylinder.
  • 2 0
 I'm far from a grammar n*zi, but you should really get someone to proof read this article
  • 1 2
 Is the Bosch ABS integrated into the master cylinder? If not, "more fluid" for the ABS system likely refers to in the whole system compared to a non-ABS brake, it doesn't really need a larger reservoir to operate, though more in reserve means it can operate longer between maintenance is fluid is slowly lost, as mentioned.

More in the reservoir probably isn't really going to help with consistency through a run, since the heat from the caliper is not even going to make it up to the master cylinder, let alone into the reservoir.
  • 2 0
 Countless iterations later seems like Magura is finally zeroing in on Shimano lever ergonomics.
  • 3 1
 It would be cool if they made them in fluo-green!
  • 1 0
 Would love to try Maguras sometime, but won't ever pay money for a plastic MC. Dominion A4s are where it's at.
  • 1 1
 Had Gustavs back when they were a floating caliper. Ebike park laps, doesn't the motor drag over the 24ish mph range?
  • 1 0
 But will the calipers and levers be available in the original neon yellow?
  • 2 0
 Who asked for ABS...?
  • 1 0
 Hope tech 4 v4 for me , no plastic shite in sight!
  • 1 1
 so how do you adjust hose length?
  • 2 1
 It says in the article, cut it at the caliper end
  • 6 2
 @Ghaytnd: then you need the crimping tool, and another banjo. i've had maguras years and theyve been great, but this (particular design decision) seems like a bit of a hack...
  • 3 0
 @Ghaytnd: yes it says so, but that end is crimped too (at the banjo)
  • 5 0
 @GumptionZA: great for all the shitty cable tourism bikes out there
  • 1 2
 @nicoenduro: i suppose you can loop your spare hose around the inside of the frame so you dont have to cut it
  • 1 1
 @Ghaytnd: ok so they have removable banjos, so assuming these brakes come with those standard (which if the press shots are anything to go by they won't), you remove the banjo, cut the hose to length and reinstall... then instead of doing a lever bleed you have to do a full caliper bleed, which is much more of a mission.
  • 3 0
 Cut the hose at the lever end and then use the screw on easy link. There's both crimped and screw on versions. The crimped has the advantage of being able to go through cable routing.
  • 3 3
 dude i use Mt7 that shit is other level, shimano and sram are shit
  • 2 0
 Well shit, ain't that the shit!
  • 2 0
 @Mac1987: Use this shit, not that shit!
  • 2 0
 @barp: Shiiiiiiittttt







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