Let's be honest here: a lot of us, including myself, have an unreasonable craving for carbon. This is especially true when it comes to carbon rims, but, when you do the 'cost vs. weight vs. performance' math, it's aluminum rims that make the most sense for almost everyone, isn't it? Of course, which is why I've been putting Stans' $100 USD Arch MK3 rims through the wringer for the last handful of months.
At a reasonable 453-grams for the 29'' model, the new Arch MK3 is kind of an all-around rim, even if Stans says that it has been designed ''with input from our Enduro World Series teams.'' Prefer smaller wheels? Stans also offers the Arch MK3 in both 27.5'' and, gasp, even 26'' sizes.
Arch MK3 Details• Intended use: trail / all-mountain
• Material: 6069 aluminum
• Sizes: 26'' / 27.5'' / 29'' (tested)
• Internal width: 26mm
• External width: 29.3mm
• Rim height: 16mm
• 28 or 32 hole (tested)
• Weight: 453-grams (29'')
• MSRP: $100 USD
•
www.notubes.com DesignThe 6069 aluminum Arch MK3 rim is all-new for 2017, with a wider, 26mm internal width that's intended to mate best with 2.25" to 2.5" rubber, which is what most trail and all-mountain types are using these days. The rim's width isn't as massive as a bunch of other options out there, especially some much pricier carbon rims, but Stans is calling this 'wide but not crazy wide' design their WideRight theory. In a nutshell, they're saying that too wide of a rim combined with a tire not designed for it (and the very large majority of them aren't) will force the tire into a less-than-ideal shape. If you've ever put a high-volume tire on a skinny rim and found that the casing folds over too easily, or ran a tire with a more square cross-section on a very wide rim and found your bike's handling to be weird, then you know there's some truth to matching a rim and tire properly.
So while the 26mm wide (internal) Arch MK3 is best suited to tires between 2.25" to 2.5" wide, the 29mm wide
Flow MK3 is made for tires up to 2.8'' in width because the wider profile offers more support to high-volume tires. The Flow, which is sometimes even used on downhill bikes, is also heavier than its skinnier brother, at 527-grams in a 29'' size compared to the Arch's 453-gram weight in the same diameter. The new Arch MK3 is also wider than the older EX version yet manages to weigh the same.
A UST (Universal Standard For Tubeless) rim design is considered mandatory by some to achieve a true tubeless setup, but Stans has long used their own BST (Bead Socket Technology) rim design to allow most non-tubeless tires to be setup up quickly sans tube.
BST consists of a large bead shelf to encourage a snug fit for easy sealing and a low sidewall with a profile designed to interact better with the round beads of non-UST tires. You don't always need a specific rim or tire combo to run a tubeless setup, but the idea behind BST is to make it easy to run normal tires, which are usually lighter than a UST option, and have the whole thing go together without needing an air compressor, drywall patching kit, and a counseling session afterward.
PerformanceThe Arch MK3 aluminum rim has seen a boatload of original equipment spec, including on Rocky Mountain's Element 990 RSL BC Edition cross-country bike that I've been abusing for the past handful of months. The 32-hole rims are laced to a DT Swiss 350 rear hub and a house-branded 15mm front hub with WTB spokes from the factory, and I've removed and re-installed the stock Maxxis DHR II front tire and Minion SS rear tire as well.
The Arch MK3 rims have also seen a set of
burly Continental Der Baron 2.4 Projekt mudders installed, two
Vittoria Gato wet condition cross-country tires, and now a set of Vee Rubber's sporty Trail Takers (review coming soon). So that's five different types of tires on the Arch MK 3 rims, but not a single episode of swearing and yelling during the installs. I have a Bontrager TLR Flash Charger floor pump in my workshop that makes things easy, but I also used it as a regular pump rather than an air tank just to see if I could get a few tires to seat up smoothly without relying on a massive rush of air. Still no swearing or yelling.
The different tires the Arch rims have seen required vastly different pressures, with the big German rubber seeing numbers as low as just 16 PSI and the much slimmer Trail Takers being pumped up as firm as 26 PSI, depending on the terrain and the day's conditions. But one thing that has been consistent is the burping - there hasn't been any. All of the tires fit snug but not so tight that I needed a set of steel levers to do the job, and none of them belched any air despite plenty of crooked landings and mistimed moves. That's story of my life, to be honest, but I had no trouble with any of the tires on the Arch MK3 rims.
Now, I know that the 100mm-travel Element (with a 120mm fork) isn't exactly a heavy-hitting all-mountain bike but, to be fair, my little black BC Edition test rig has probably seen more miles and rowdier terrain than a lot of bikes with 60mm more suspension. Does having less travel put more focus on the reliability of the bike's wheels? I think so, and the result is... not much, and I mean that it a very positive way. Aside from one quick session on the truing stand to fix a minor wobble, likely caused by that time I 50/50'd a large rock hard enough that I thought I was going to die, the rims have been essentially invisible while doing their job. There aren't even any flat spots, which I did kinda expect given their wide, low shape.
That the Arch MK3s are trustworthy in these days when the large majority of rims and wheelsets are quite reliable isn't enough to make them standout, although it's obviously a good thing. No, what makes the Arch rims worthwhile, at least in my mind, is how they
feel. A lot of the carbon rims on the market, while being lighter, tend to pass chatter up through the bike and into the rider; this is something I've felt firsthand with tall, wide carbon rims. The aluminum, 16mm tall Arch MK3 rims have a softer, more forgiving feel to them, but without the vague sensation that a lighter weight, skinnier set of rims can be guilty of having. If you've ever run a set of deep carbon rims on a short-travel bike, or even on a hardtail, you might know that stiff, unforgiving ride that I'm talking about.
Pinkbike's Take: ![bigquotes](https://es.pinkbike.org/246/sprt/i/bigquotes-left.svg) | These Stans rims are a bit of a tough product to review because they do their job without any fuss or troubles, all while costing a quarter as much as many carbon fiber rims out there. Comparing a $100 aluminum rim to a four hundred dollar (or much more) carbon rim isn't exactly an apples to apples kind of thing, but I'd have a real hard time spending four times as much money for what I feel are the pretty negligible benefits of a carbon hoop. Instead, I'd pick up a set of the Arch MK3 rims, put them on my bike, and proceed to forget about them. You can't ask for much else.— Mike Levy |
I buy a couple of pairs at the start of each year that I can bin or give away at the end of the year
Sure, all those things are factors man. If you're in every couple weeks to replace a spoke, probably time for a rebuild. The increased tension needed to keep a wonky rim true will start to pull spokes through the rim, or load so much tension on the spoke that the heads want to sheer off.
Think about a new rim--it looks true and round to the naked eye, but as you build up spoke tension during the build you quickly realize that it's a few mm off here or there, and you adjust the tension on the spokes to make it perfect (you'll see that all the spoke tensions are not perfectly equal though, because the rim wasn't laser straight to start). Now imagine bashing the hell out of it while it's on a bike... those spokes are hanging on for dear life, trying to keep that rim true and round. As things go out of true a bit here and there, you can tweak spoke tensions to bring it back to a good round/true wheel. But every time you do that you are messing up the original tension balance of the spokes--and you can't just crank the tension up infinitely to pull a rim back into line because you'll eventually break the spoke or more likely, crack the rim at the nipple hole.
I'm no engineer, but as an example take an empty soda can and pinch it together in the middle. We know that aluminum alloy is malleable, so go ahead and bend that can back and forth at the pinch.. why does it eventually start to form holes and want to tear in half? In other words, why can't a person just keep bending it back and forth ad nauseum? I'd guess that has something to do with the fatigue life of that particular material. Same principle in an alloy rim, slightly different application. So even if you tore down the wheel and built it up with fresh spokes, that rim has already been bashed enough to turn it into a spaghetti noodle, relatively speaking.
Would balance out to the same cost after a few years and you wouldn't have to ride a heavy budget wheelset....
If you are one of those people who replace a rim soon as it gets a ding, then juretunic would be right. I'm not surprised if I get a new ding each ride, almost disappointed if I go a couple without, know I haven't been riding aggressively enough.
I have had a full year out of a set of wheels on the trail bike, no problem - No huge rocks (which admittedly are rim killers, thats just not the terrain here) but as an ex DH racer to a decent standard I know how to push the bike, I do run tyres fit for purpose and tend not to deliberately smash into things to see if I can dent my rims though....
Its such a bizarre thing for you to say you are disappointed if you don't ding your ring every ride! - I know people that race at national level (Elite) that get half a season from a set of rims on their trail bike and a fair few training rides and races from DH rims and they post times that are 15 seconds off the podium against regular WC racers.
Are you guys running super low profile on thin tyres and hitting everything you can just to try and smash your bikes up? - Are you all running really cheap tat wheels like Superstars or similar? - What the hell do you expect if so?
They're so much cheaper than pretty much any alternative
You can get a Hope wheelset for just a little under £350, one of the best hubs in the business and you get the amazing support Hope offer.
Their Stans Mk3 'electro' build even on sale is more expensive than you can get a Hope / Stans rim custom built by a shop at £400 with a £520 RRP.
Buying a low quality product to save 25% on the reliable, premium offering never works out in the long run, sell your bike with a Superstar wheelset = hmm, suppose they will do, sell it with a Hope hub / wheelset and its a selling point.
You are just bumming around on your local trails, so if you are damaging rims every ride you are probably just a biffa.
And so caled "local" trails are maribor, krvavec (val di sole type track) quite a bit of schladming some time in france during the off season and so on... now stop acting like a know it all and trying to make me look bad just because you disagree with me.
Happy trails.
You said "you need to replace rims every few months if you ride hard enough" - But should have included the distinction that you are on a full DH bike riding WC level DH tracks regularly.....
This is why I took the point about guys killing rims every month or so and called it out - It just isnt the reality for average riders on trail bikes, most people do not race / ride serious DH and certainly dont have access to tracks that you do on a regular basis.
So realistically, you probably do kill rims quite often, but you dont run the Stans Arch on your DH bike either, which is the topic of this review - the average rider on their trail bike does and doesnt kill rims every month.
So while I don't doubt that these hoops are good, I LOVE my carbon nextie rims that only cost $160. They weight a hair lighter than these, but the real benefit is that they NEVER go out of true. Bust a spoke? Lace up the replacement and its true. Flatland on a rock so hard it bursts your tire? Rim still true. And the Nextie rims have a light, springy feel- not too stiff like certain carbon rims that I'm not envying, if you get my meaning.
I can't say enough about carbon wheels... biggest improvement I've made in a while
I won't buy carbon rims again. I know they are blingy, light, and stiff, but one mishap with a flat tire on a super rocky section = bye bye carbon.
Pretty sure if I'm bombing a rock section with a flat my aluminum rim is not gonna be ridden again once I examine it at home. Cracked CF or Mangled Aluminum. Result is the same in the end.
The benefits of carbon for wheels heavily outweigh the drawbacks, and the aluminum has very little benefits over carbon. The perceived benefits of durability with aluminum are negated if you just take care of them... riding a flatted rim is bad for the wheel, no matter the material.
I think lots of guys buy the lightest CF rim and then cry when they crack.
Get some good wide LB's or Nexties with 3mm or 3.5mm sidewalls and maybe even the added DH/Enduro reinforcements and you will never go back. The strength/weight/stiffness ratio is off the charts. But don't get XC rims to do Enduro/DH duty.
www.vitalmtb.com/features/2017-Vital-MTB-Trail-Bike-Test-Sessions-Introduction,1540
"Over the course of the next few rides the rear rim cracked several more times, each one seemingly easier than the one before it"
Where you find some differences are the type of tires you want to use (as you mentioned) and the pressure you want to run. The wider flow will allow a lower pressure, however I think tire-profile is more important, so if you are running 2.3-2.5 then 26mm is perfect.
That being said... you aren't hurting yourself by having the flows.
Haven't talked to anyone who has run the 2.6WTs, but on a boost frame/fork you'll have no clearance issues (obviously). I'd guess pedal strike issues because the tires aren't as big as a 2.8 or 3.0... but good question man! The 2.6 tires seem to be that sweet spot many are after, but will it take a purpose built frame to accommodate them?
Generally if you want a sub 400g 29er rim that lasts you need to go carbon. Otherwise harden up.
I'm running a 2.6 Spec butcher which aired up with hand pump, never had sealant in it and holds air fine. Topped up once or twice in a few months!!!!
Thinking of swapping the 2.6 butcher even though I love it but it runs pretty close to the fork (RS Pikes) non-boost. I think not only the rim but a good even build makes all the difference. No issues yet with the new Arch Mk3 and was sceptical due to the same weight but wider. I have slowed down but still ride rocky trails. I think if I build a new bike Flows will be on the list though at 29mm and really not that heavy whilst being dam strong.
On trails I'm sold on wider, 35" for my burner and 50" for the winter rat. Notubes new flow and sargent in my future.
*that's 9 months of the year in the UK...
in this trail bike article says 2.3 is the max... but it depends on what trails you ride, how aggressive you ride and many more
www.giant-bicycles.com/it/trance-1
to things.
1 what is a trail bike?
2 what is a 2.5 tire.
my V10 has 2.5 and 2.4 tires makes it a "modern" trail bike? I don't see no DH racer going bigger than 2.3 or 2.4. my Giant Reign has 2.35 Scwalbe tire that is bigger than a Minnion 2.5 and now I am looking for a thinner tire to make the bike feels lighter, and I ride rocky trails.
so it's confusing. we can stay here talking and talking.
I just wanted to say that I don't see any bike brand selling "trail bikes" with tires bigger than 2.3 just that... and I think 2.5 to big for trail bikes.
I love Stan rims they are one of the best rims ever.
funny how you say that you like the look of a bigger tire on your bike... so if you didn't care about the look would you ride a thinner tire?
spank-ind.com/type-rim.php