Video: Jordi Explains How Volume Spacers Function & How to Set Them Up in the Latest 'Dialed' Episode

 Jordi helped me out when I was setting up my new 40 at Windrock - didn't even know to take off the caps covering the air release valve and he made sure I equaled that out before I went off for a few more runs. Definitely a nice dude!~

 Glad you're enjoying them. World Cup season isn't far off!

 New / proto linkage?

 had a coil on his tallboy before and people noticed so maybe something related to that

 Luftkappe?

 I’d consider getting your damper custom tuned to your weight and riding style.

 There is a local guy who modify fork and shocks (novypart). I was just wondering if there is anything I could do on my own to improve the fork

 your compression damping could be too much for your weight and what you ride. using 4 tokens seems excessive. A luftkappe would help the air pressure and ramp side of things but ultimately if your damping is crap changing the air spring won't really help much. I'd contact novypart and see what they say. having used the IRT system from manitou and their damping I'm not going to use another fork for a while. Currently riding a mezzer.

 Have you done a lower bath oil overhaul recently? Changing that oil every 50hrs of riding a key to performance in any fork.

 I would revalve your damper with less HSC like others have said. I think fox will do a custom tune for you if you send it in for service.

 @WhatAboutBob: yep, done frequently.

 @clink83: good idea, I didn't know they could do it.

 @lecriquet: That is always the first question.

My guess is your fork might be too progressive. An easy test would be to pull to spacer and increase your air pressure. This should increase the ride hight of your fork which might smooth things out. I would also make some minor rebound adjustments. Maybe do some bracket testing with your rebound setting to see if gives you feel you are looking for.

I am not sure that too much HSC is the issue when it comes to small bump compliance. Before spending money making that change I would shop for some other knowledgable opinions.

 @WhatAboutBob: I could be wrong, but it could be that at 140lbs the bike has run really low pressures with volume spacers to use all of the travel and not have dive. Its kind of like setting up a twin tube shock, you set the proper sag, adjust HSC, then monkey around with the other settings. In theory LSC and spring rate should be responsible for small bump compliance, but if you have too much HSC for your weight you wont be able to ride with the right spring rate.

 @clink83: I don't ride that fork myself. But I have Step cast 32, Step cast 34 and 36 all with fit 4. I am around 135lb right now and I don't feel like forks have too much HSC. But my trails are fast and hits are big and hard,I might feel different if I lived some place where the trails were slower.

lecriquet: in my SC 34 I am running 1 spacer and 73 psi.

 @clink83: you are right. I used to have the exact same settings as WhatAboutBob. But, for example, on fireroads climbs, the fork just didn't work on small rocks. If I lower the pressure then it dives like hell in rocky descent. So I decided to lower the pressure (around 60psi) and to add volume spacers in order make it work on small bumps but not dive on big rocks.
I kind of like it but I am far for being an expert so any help is welcomed!

 @lecriquet: with a rebuild, it would most likely help, but I'm your same weight, and ride a 36 with the grip 2 damper, and that damper is absolutely awesome. I know that damper is going to be available for the 34, so maybe look into getting that

 @lecriquet: Making a fork work on fire road climbs and perform on steep descents is a challenge. Particularly if you are on a modern bike which has shifted a higher percentage of your weight to rear wheel. Slack head angles, short-stems and long front centres do have some disadvantages.

You might be searching for the impossible.

I do have a brand new 34 with grip 2 dampener sitting in a box waiting for a frame. I am curious to see how it performs relative to the Fit 4s.

 @gnar-shredderz: great, but that seems to be a lot of money to me. Novypart guy are rebuilding the fork for 130€.

 @WhatAboutBob: I don't think I am searching for the impossible.
I mostly run on not too demanding trails, but 60 or 70 km with a fork not working at all on small bumps was really too hard for my arms and shoulders. I first lowered the pressure to get small bumps compliance without adding volume spacer but the fork dived under breaking. Also, going down with a fork eating all the travel on the first rock was just dangerous.
That is the reason why I added the volume spacers.
But it's still not perfect because my sag is not correct.

 @lecriquet: What bike are you on?

I am super happy range of performance of a Step Cast 32 with a Fit 4 on an XC bike. But I do find it really difficult to make the forks on trail bikes work on small bumps when climbing and offer the descending performance I am looking for. High front ends, slack angles, and short stems put very little weight on that fork when climbing.

 DSD Runt. Have one (in a few forks) in my 34 SC. Basically it’s an active volume spacer. For the short travel Fork it is really helpful for allowing small bump compliance yet enough support, progression and bottom out to handle anything your going to do on a 120 Fork. It’s as easy to install as tokens, but offers a lot more tuning options.

 @WhatAboutBob: canyon spectral 2016

 @MonsterTruck: I'll give a look

 @lecriquet: I am just throwing around ideas here, take them or leave them.

Have you tried setting up your bike so that you have a bit more weight on the front wheel while climbing? On my XC bike which has a slammed and long stem the fork feels great on climbs, flats and moderate downhills, where as on my Enduro bike the fork feels terrible on the same trails.

 @WhatAboutBob: I do appreciate your help.
I get the idea. Unfortunatly my saddle is already full forward.

 MRP Ramp control is pretty amazing, provided you’re not a ShockWiz user. But it’s a million times easier than switching out volume spacers.

 You can do that on some rockshox shocks

 @clink83: Also DVO Topaz.

 @NWBasser: nice...not familiar with DVO stuff at all

 @clink83: some float x2's and dps/dpx2 have factory fitted negative volume spacers, but they don't give any info on those. Normally on bikes that have a lower overall ratio (yt is a common one).

Negative volume reduction decresses its affect over the first 3rd of the stroke making it feel more supportive while making it possible to use lower air pressure.

Think of an air spring with positive and negative springs balancing (net 0 force on piston) move it one way and positive side increases and negative side decreases creating the spring rate. If you make the negative side smaller the rate at which it decreases pressure is faster making the net spring rate firmer quicker. (I.e. supportive) at cost of small bump few mm into travel.

Also that topaz (and suntour triair) are basically a monarch plus. Some minor internal changes. (Beside external aethetic)

 Oh, the elections would be such a suspend!