Specifications | ||
Price | $8999 | |
Travel | 170mm | |
Rear Shock | RockShox Vivid Select+ 230 x 65mm | |
Fork | RockShox Zeb Ultimate 180mm | |
Headset | FSA No. 55 Sealed Bearing | |
Cassette | SRAM 1275 T-Type 10-52 tooth | |
Crankarms | e*thirteen e*Plus 165mm | |
Pedals | Bosch Performance Line CX / 750 Wh battery | |
Rear Derailleur | SRAM GX AXS T-Type | |
Chain | SRAM GX Eagle T-Type | |
Shifter Pods | SRAM AXS Pod controller | |
Handlebar | 6061 alloy, 800mm wide, 25mm rise | |
Stem | 40mm, 35mm clamp | |
Grips | WTB Wavelength | |
Brakes | SRAM Code RSC | |
Wheelset | Crankbrothers Synthesis E-Bike | |
Tires | Continental Kryptotal-F Enduro 29 x 2.4 / Continental Kryptotal Enduro 27.5 x 2.4" | |
Seat | SDG Bel Air V3 Lux Alloy | |
Seatpost | TranzX YSI08FL RAD+ Travel Adjust Dropper |
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In the real world, I've noticed I have slightly better range than my friends on S-Works Turbo Levos, so maybe there's something to it?
Trek Rail.....
practically nobody!
(i have both and People hating sram are the ones who cant set them correctly)
So sure compared to cardboard MT5's and SLX they are okish but even compared to old Saints they are horrid with their mushy feeling
Also "modulation" ? All that is is them using super cheap brake lines that expand during breaking. It's not more control but cost cutting on their part.
Also "no brake can overcome traction limits". Ah yes that's why the top pros are on Sram Levels... That's not really an argument. People want stronger brakes so that their arms hurt less. I see a lot of people comparing codes to enduro brakes or cheaper brakes here. So sure if you compare a code RSC to a brake that's 60% of the price it looks good but apples to apples. I see no reason to use sram even if yes we can cherry pick bad products from the competition Sram has always offered a consistently mediocre product. Never absolute shit but also never good. Never previous gen Saint, OG Gustavs in 2003, TRP with correct rotors. Last gen Hope V2 before going V4 (or Tech4 now), Hayes or that weird Shimano Magura combo people are doing.
Related note, I finally tried MTX pads in my Codes this year and they're incredible. Would definitely recommend to someone considering ditching Codes if power or squealing are on your list of complaints.
I had Codes on my Levo before and they were woefully underpowered, even with 220 HS2 rotors.
Ebikes are great training for the upper body, you should try it.
(and that was just because he thinks he knows better than the engineers and designers of this bike)
free advice: if it no longer your generation, let others do it!, in the second you compromised in the wrong way, because you chose a smaller bike that proved indeed to be to small, because of your conservative and fixed ideas, that second should come with the realisation that you should give up on testing and let other ppl, more grounded in current realities, more open to new things, do this job!, you are not fit for it anymore, from a mental POV!
I have a 50mm stem on Nomad 5 and it's fine. I've also tried it with 40 and 42.5, and have 32, and 35 on my other bikes. They all rode fine. 5-10 mm isn't going to make your suddenly make your bike useless.
I think the guy who literally gets paid to ride every bike out there over the last decade knows what kind of feeling/ set up he wants from a bike.
Also, most DH direct mount stems are 45-50mm...
I like the reach adjust built into the frame as a great starting point to close that gap between sizes. Then you can fine tune it from there.
as for what stem you have on your nomad, has zero relevance; important is what is the length of stem, the bike's designers decided it needs to have; you can put a 80mm stem if that's your think!, it will not mean the bike is at best with one; and also, there is a significant diff in how a bike rides, feels and behave with a 40mm stem vs a 50mm stem and vice-versa; don't pretend it isn't.
All of these just reconfirm you just can't teach new tricks to an old dog.
And as for feel, yes a 40 vs a 50 will feel different. But ultimately, by the end of the first lap, I (and most people) would have adapted, and it becomes just your bike again. If that seriously makes you not be able to ride suddenly, then you should work on your skill and adaptability, because after all, this is mountain biking. Where adaptability is one of the most important factors with being a well rounded rider.
Hilarious you are calling someone who has ridden more bikes than 99% of the population as his job that he can't learn new tricks. It sounds like you are the one who can't learn new tricks, or what you actual prefer feel wise.
Shimano 504w = 2.6kg
Bosch 750w=4.9kg
I would prefer the smaller battery and a range extender over the bigger battery. But I’ve never ridden a lighter ebike, so don’t know if 5 lbs feels that different with a motor.
But basically all it gets you on an ebike is just smoother square edge hits, right? And arguably less smooth than a bike with linkage-induced rearward axel path, no? I'm much more a believer on analog bikes where the pedal feedback might actually be relevant. But even then, I've never once been riding and thought "damn, got a ton of kickback in the cranks on that one"
Rear Centre Length s1/ 428 s2/ 432 s3 /436 s4/ 440 s5/ 444
*opens Excel*
Be back shortly.
While 4mm per size isn't a lot, I would argue that it's better than one size fits all especially since the difference between the shortest and the longest is almost 20mm.
How come it looks nothing like the Range though?
Which, I sooo wish they allowed comments on.
I don’t care about e-bike feelings but quit helping them classify this as a bicycle.